The Engadin, a high valley of lakes, light and villages
A guide to the whole valley around St. Moritz: what sets each lake and village apart, what to do in each season, and how to see it all from one chalet.
The Engadin is the high valley of the river Inn in the canton of Graubünden, in south-eastern Switzerland. It runs from the Maloja watershed at 1,815 metres down to the Austrian border at around 1,000 metres, and the Brail gorge divides it into two halves. The Upper Engadin, the one most visitors mean, is a wide, sunlit plateau of four lakes between Maloja and St. Moritz, followed by a string of villages down the valley floor.
What makes the Engadin valley (often spelt Engadine valley in English) different from most Alpine valleys is its shape. It is not a narrow gorge with a resort at the end but an open corridor, so the villages see each other across the lakes and you move between them in minutes by train, bus or car. That is why a week here rarely stays in one place: you ski one mountain, walk a lakeshore, eat in another village and return to the same house each evening.
This guide covers the valley as a whole. For the town itself (how to get there, the ski mountains, where to stay) read our St. Moritz travel guide; for the glacier side valley towards the Bernina Pass, see our page on Pontresina and the Bernina glaciers. Here you will find what neither covers: how the two halves of the valley differ, what each lake and village is for, and how to build days around them.
The Engadin valley in figures
Checked against official sources, so you can plan with confidence.
The Engadin runs from the Maloja watershed (1,815 m) to the Austrian border (about 1,000 m); the Brail gorge marks the line between Upper and Lower Engadin.
Source: Historical Dictionary of Switzerland, EngadineThe Inn, which drains the valley, is the only Swiss tributary of the Danube, which it joins at Passau in Bavaria.
Source: Historical Dictionary of Switzerland, EngadineFour main lakes lie on the plateau between Maloja and St. Moritz, at around 1,800 m: Sils, Silvaplana, Champfèr and St. Moritz.
Source: Switzerland Tourism, Upper Engadine lakesLake Sils covers 4.14 km² and is the largest lake in Graubünden.
Source: Historical Dictionary of Switzerland, Upper Engadine lakesThe Via Engiadina trail follows the sunny side of the valley for 160 km in 12 stages, from Maloja to Vinadi on the Tyrolean border.
Source: Switzerland Tourism, Via EngiadinaThe Swiss National Park, founded in 1914 and reached via Zernez, is Switzerland’s only national park and the oldest in the Alps and central Europe.
Source: Swiss National ParkUpper and Lower Engadin: which one are you visiting?
The names are literal. The Upper Engadin is the higher, southern half, from Maloja to the Brail gorge: lakes, St. Moritz, Pontresina and the large ski mountains. Below Brail the Lower Engadin narrows and drops towards Austria, with the National Park around Zernez and a chain of hillside villages such as Guarda, Ardez, Ftan and Sent. Even the language changes: the Romansh spoken up the valley is the putèr variety, down the valley it is vallader.
For a guest based in St. Moritz, the Upper Engadin is the everyday playground and the Lower Engadin is a day out. The Historical Dictionary of Switzerland notes that tourism became the main economy of the upper valley once the railway arrived between 1903 and 1913; the lower valley has stayed more rural, and that contrast is exactly what makes the day trip worthwhile.
| Upper Engadin | Lower Engadin | |
|---|---|---|
| Where | Maloja to the Brail gorge | Brail gorge to the Austrian border |
| Landscape | Wide, open plateau, four large lakes, glaciers to the south | Narrower valley, forests, villages perched on sunny terraces |
| Main places | Maloja, Sils, Silvaplana, St. Moritz, Celerina, Pontresina, Samedan, Zuoz, S-chanf | Zernez, Susch, Lavin, Guarda, Ardez, Ftan, Scuol, Sent |
| Romansh variety | Putèr | Vallader |
| What people come for | Skiing, frozen lakes, events, lakeside walks, water sports | The Swiss National Park, quiet villages, long walks |
| From a St. Moritz chalet | Every day, often several places in one day | One full day, with a driver |
Valley division and languages from the Historical Dictionary of Switzerland; village lists from Switzerland Tourism.
The four lakes, from Maloja to St. Moritz
The lake plateau is the signature of the Engadin. Sils, Silvaplana, Champfèr and St. Moritz follow one another along the Inn, which is still called the Sela where it crosses Lake Silvaplana. They look alike on a map; in practice each has its own use.
Lake Sils is the largest, and to many the most beautiful. A gentle walk of just over four kilometres, roughly an hour and ten minutes in the tourist office’s listing, loops around the Chastè peninsula from Sils. In summer a motor boat crosses from Sils Maria to Maloja in about 40 minutes, a slow and lovely way to reach the head of the valley. Lake Silvaplana is the sporting one: the Maloja wind, which Switzerland Tourism describes as constant, makes the lakes a destination for windsurfing, kitesurfing and sailing. Champfèr, joined to Silvaplana by a narrow strip of land, is quiet and popular with anglers. Lake St. Moritz is the stage, with the town above it and its events on the ice in winter.
When the lakes freeze thick enough, the plateau becomes one white surface used by walkers, cross-country skiers and snowkiters. Always follow the marked and authorised areas on the ice: the local authorities decide when and where the surface is open.
| Lake | Character | Best use |
|---|---|---|
| Sils (Lej da Segl) | The largest, between Sils Maria and Maloja | The Chastè peninsula walk, the summer boat to Maloja, a picnic by the water |
| Silvaplana (Lej da Silvaplauna) | Open to the Maloja wind, Corvatsch above | Windsurfing, kitesurfing and sailing in summer, snowkiting in winter |
| Champfèr (Lej da Champfèr) | Small and sheltered | Fishing, a quiet stroll |
| St. Moritz (Lej da San Murezzan) | The town lake, lively in winter | Events on the frozen lake, the lakeside path |
Romansh names and uses from Switzerland Tourism and Sils Tourism.
The villages of the Upper Engadin, one by one
Most visitors know St. Moritz and stop there. The valley is richer than that, and knowing what each village offers turns a good week into a varied one. Here they are in order, from the top of the valley down.
- Maloja: the watershed at the head of the valley, where the road drops away towards the Bregaglia and Italy, and the start of the Engadin Ski Marathon.
- Sils (Sils Maria and Sils Baselgia): the literary village, where Friedrich Nietzsche wrote some of his best-known works. Val Fex, behind it, has had its alpine flora protected since 1954.
- Silvaplana: the water-sports village in summer and the freestyle base in winter, beneath Corvatsch, Piz Julier and Piz Surlej.
- Champfèr: a small village between two lakes, a few minutes from St. Moritz.
- St. Moritz: the town, the events and the evenings, with Corviglia above it.
- Celerina: next door to St. Moritz on the valley floor, a quieter address a few minutes from the town.
- Pontresina: the side valley of glaciers, Diavolezza and Val Roseg.
- Samedan: home to Engadin Airport, the valley’s regional airfield for private and charter flights.
- Bever, La Punt and Madulain: quiet stops along the Inn, on the cross-country and cycling routes.
- Zuoz: a village of old Engadin houses down the valley, which hosts a four-day show-jumping competition in August.
- S-chanf: the last village before the Brail gorge, and the finish line of the ski marathon.
Why the Engadin light drew painters and thinkers
Ask people what they remember about the Engadin and many say the light: hard and clear in winter, long and soft in summer, reflected twice by snow and by the lakes. It is the landscape Giovanni Segantini immortalised in his paintings, and the Segantini Museum in St. Moritz is the best introduction to the valley on a grey afternoon. Nietzsche wrote some of his best-known works in Sils, and artists and thinkers have kept coming ever since, which is why the valley still has a cultural calendar that goes well beyond sport.
That cultural side is easy to miss if you only ski. In summer, the tourist board counts more than 100 classical concerts held outdoors in Pontresina and Sils. In winter, Silvaplana hosts the Coppa Romana in January, described by Engadin Tourism as the world’s largest open-air curling tournament. Neither needs much planning, but both are better with a table booked for afterwards, which is the kind of detail our concierge handles.
Winter in the Engadin: more than one ski mountain
Downhill skiing in the valley is spread across separate mountains rather than one linked circuit: Corviglia above St. Moritz, Corvatsch and Furtschellas above Silvaplana and Sils, and Diavolezza and Lagalb on the Bernina road. The practical consequence is simple: decide each morning which side of the valley has the best snow and the least wind, and go there.
Cross-country skiing is the other great winter sport here, on trails that run along the valley floor and over the frozen lakes; our Pontresina guide details the best trails from that village. The valley’s biggest day is the Engadin Ski Marathon, held in March since 1969: 42 km from Maloja to S-chanf, across the frozen lakes, and described by Engadin Tourism as Switzerland’s largest mass sports event. Check the official site for the exact date before planning a week around it.
- For skiers: alternate Corviglia, Corvatsch and Diavolezza across the week, with a private instructor who knows all three.
- For cross-country skiers: the lake trails between Sils and St. Moritz, then the valley floor towards S-chanf.
- For non-skiers: winter walks along the frozen lakes, a carriage ride up Val Roseg, the Segantini Museum, a curling session.
- For a day off the snow: the panoramic railway over the Bernina Pass towards Italy.
The Engadin in summer: walking, cycling and water
In summer the valley becomes one of the finest walking and cycling areas in Switzerland, and its gentleness is its strength: much of the valley floor is flat or nearly so, at around 1,800 metres, with three-thousand-metre peaks on both sides. You can do a great deal without ever taking a lift.
The Via Engiadina follows the sunny side of the valley for 160 km in 12 stages from Maloja to Vinadi, and any one stage makes a fine day. Cyclists use the Inn cycle route, whose first stage runs 33 km from Maloja to La Punt past every lake on the plateau. From Sils, an e-bike loop climbs into Val Fex towards the glacier at its head. A day further afield, the Swiss National Park near Zernez is the largest wilderness area in the country, and the Bernina line down to Tirano offers a full day in Italy: see our guide to the Bernina Express.
| Summer day | Route | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|
| Lakes by bike | Inn cycle route, Maloja to La Punt, 33 km, starting from the highest point of the valley | Families and mixed groups, with a car to bring everyone back |
| One stage of the Via Engiadina | For example Maloja to Sils on the sunny side, above the lakes | Walkers who want views without a summit |
| Val Fex | On foot or by e-bike from Sils | Flower lovers in early summer, photographers |
| Water | Windsurfing or kitesurfing lesson on Lake Silvaplana, boat on Lake Sils | Teenagers and sporty adults, then a calm afternoon for the rest |
| Wilderness | A guided walk in the Swiss National Park | Nature lovers, children curious about wildlife |
Distances from Switzerland Tourism and Graubünden Tourism; equipment, guides and lessons arranged on request.
Exploring the Engadin from a St. Moritz chalet
St. Moritz sits in the middle of the Upper Engadin, which makes it the natural base for the whole valley: Maloja at one end and S-chanf at the other are both an easy drive. Chalet Azelia and Chalet Gus, St. Moritz, both include a private chauffeur every day, so a morning on Lake Sils and an afternoon in Zuoz need no logistics on your side. Chalet Gus, St. Moritz, a restored 18th-century residence, also suits guests who want the valley’s old architecture at home. At Chalet Nore, in the heart of town, a chauffeur around St. Moritz and the Engadin can be arranged on request.
Nathalie Nguyen and Adam Haddad plan the valley with you before you arrive: which day for the Lower Engadin, which mountain for which morning, a kitesurfing instructor or a mountain guide, an e-bike delivered to the chalet, a table in a village you would not have found alone. Every residence in our collection of luxury chalets in St. Moritz has been visited by the team, and some are available without being published online.
- Tell us the season and the group
Skiers, cross-country skiers, walkers, children, non-skiers: the balance decides which side of the valley we favour.
- Pick two or three anchor days
For example the Lower Engadin and the National Park, a day on the Bernina line, or the ski marathon weekend.
- Leave the rest flexible
Weather in the Engadin changes quickly; with a driver and a concierge you choose the lake or the mountain each morning.
Our chalets at the heart of the Engadin
All four are in St. Moritz, the most central base for both ends of the valley.
The St. Moritz chalets side by side
Capacity, size and wellness at a glance; services and availability on request.
| Residence | Guests | Bedrooms | Bathrooms | Living area | Highlights |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chalet GusSt. Moritz | 20 | 9 | 9 | 930 m² | Indoor Pool, Wine Cellar, Hammam, Sauna, Massage Room |
| Chalet AzeliaSt. Moritz | 14 | 6 | 7 | 1,000 m² | Indoor Pool, Cinema Room, Hammam, Massage Room, Jacuzzi |
| Chalet NoreSt. Moritz | 15 | 6 | 7 | 467 m² | Indoor Pool, Cinema Room, Hammam, Sauna, Massage Room |
| Chalet CalistaSt. Moritz | 20 | 7 | 8 | 744 m² | Indoor Pool |
Rates are on request and depend on dates and services. Your advisor confirms availability and the final details of every residence.
Engadin questions
Anything else? Our team in Paris answers personally, usually within the day.
Ask our teamWhere is the Engadin valley in Switzerland?
In the canton of Graubünden, in the far south-east of Switzerland, close to the Italian and Austrian borders. The valley follows the Inn from the Maloja watershed at 1,815 m down to the Austrian border at about 1,000 m. St. Moritz is its best-known town, in the upper half of the valley, and Zernez and Scuol lie in the lower half.
What is the difference between the Upper and Lower Engadin?
The Brail gorge divides the two. The Upper Engadin, from Maloja to Brail, is the high lake plateau with St. Moritz, Pontresina and the big ski mountains. The Lower Engadin, from Brail to Austria, is narrower, more rural and home to the Swiss National Park near Zernez. The Romansh dialect changes too: putèr up the valley, vallader down it.
What is the Engadin known for?
Its lakes and light, St. Moritz and its events on the frozen lake, cross-country skiing, the Engadin Ski Marathon in March, and in summer walking, cycling and water sports on Lake Silvaplana. It is also known for its Romansh culture and for the painters and writers who settled there, from Segantini to Nietzsche in Sils.
Is the Engadin worth visiting in summer?
Yes. The valley floor at around 1,800 m is ideal for gentle cycling and walking, the lakes are used for sailing, windsurfing and kitesurfing, and long routes such as the 160 km Via Engiadina offer a stage for every level. More than 100 outdoor classical concerts are held in Pontresina and Sils each summer, and the Swiss National Park is a day trip away.
How do you get to the Engadin from Zurich?
Most visitors take the train from Zurich to St. Moritz, changing at Chur for the mountain railway over the Albula line, or drive over the Julier Pass. Guests flying privately can land at the regional airport in Samedan. Our guide from Zurich to St. Moritz compares the options, and we can arrange a chauffeur for the whole journey.
What language is spoken in the Engadin?
In St. Moritz you will mostly hear German, but the valley’s historic language is Romansh, in two varieties: putèr in the Upper Engadin and vallader in the Lower Engadin. You will see Romansh on road signs and in place names, such as Lej da Segl for Lake Sils. Italian is also common, given how close the border is.
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See the whole valley from one chalet
Tell Nathalie Nguyen or Adam Haddad when you are coming and who is in the group, and they will suggest the right St. Moritz chalet and the days that make the most of the Engadin. Write on WhatsApp at +33 7 80 98 05 43 or to contact@lutetia-group.com; the team usually replies within the day.